Monday, December 17, 2012

JHALONG AND BINDU: PLACES TO REST TIRED SOULS


I had shortlisted Jhalong - or, rather, 'Jholung' - and Bindu for our once-in-half-year tour after I read about them from The Saptahik Bartaman, 22 September 2012-issue (25:20). The magazine carried a few articles on the mountainous spots on its 41st page. I did some researching on internet. We were to go to the two places by our good old Mahindra Bolero - D.I.. But would our chauffeur be able to drive up to Bindu? I understood from researching that Bindu, the last point in India before Bhutan starts, is on steep mountains, and it might be dangerous for plain-land-vehicle-drivers to attempt reaching there. Nevertheless, we gathered a team at Haldibari, in the district of Coochbehar (West Bengal, India), which comprised of myself, my mother Ratna Roy, my better-half Sreeparna Roy (Chattopadhyay), one of my maternal uncles and an advocate-politician Sourav Roy, his wife Sumi, and their small son Souriddha. Biswanath Orawn was to chauffeur us to Jhalong and Bindu, a journey for which we had to fill in INR 1000-worth of diesel from a petrol-pump at Paharpur, off Jalpaiguri, supposedly belonging to the Congress politician Debaprasad Roy. On a bright December morning in 2012, we started from Haldibari at around 08:30 a.m. We were in high spirits, and it was soon to get higher!

As far as dry geo-statistical data is concerned, Jhalong - or 'Jholung' - is a hamlet in the Kalimpong subdivision of the northern Bengal district of Darjeeling. Many tourists regard Jahlong as synonymous with Jaldhaka, which is famous for its hydroelectric projects on River Jaldhaka. The hill-station, not frequented by many tourists, is located near the Indo-Bhutan border, at a distance of approximately one hundred kilometres from Siliguri. We did not take the Siliguri-side. We drove from Jalpaiguri, crossed the infamous Teesta Bridge, took a left-had-turn at Domohini, drove through Lataguri Forest, took a right-hand-turn to Murti, crossed Batabari, Khunia More, and advanced on the Chapramari trail, directly on the Himalayas. The road to Jhalong is covered with dense foliage all along, and it is one of thee more beautiful roads I have ever seen. Bindu is approximately 13 kilometres away from Jhalong, the last Indian settlement before Bhutan hills. It took us more than half-an-hour-drive up from Jhalong to reach Bindu. We found that what Wikipedia notes about Bindu, on 17 December 2012 is absolutely true:

"Bindu is the last village on the Indian side bordering Bhutan. It is known for its beautiful landscape with Jaldhaka River, hills and forests, which attracts a lot of tourists. There is a conjunction of three streams at Bindu. The three streams are known as Bindu Khola, Dudh Pokhri, and Jaldhaka that originates from the Kupup Lake, a small glacial lake in Sikkim. The combined streams meet at Bindu to form the Jaldhaka river. There is a dam known as Bindu Dam over the Jaldhaka river which is used for controlling water supply to the Jaldhaka Hydel Project at Jhalong and acts as a bridge for crossing over to Bhutan".

We were mesmerised by Bindu...as were by Jhalong. For us, the tiny hamlet of Bindu seemed to be the endpoint of the world...if it were possible!

There are two roads to Jhalong and Bindu - one is through Chalsa (Chalsa being 57 kilometres away from Jalpaiguri town), and it is mostly accessed by all. We took the 'road less taken'...to remember a part of Frost's lines! We travelled through Murti (8 kilometres east of Chalsa)-Batabari-Khunia. It took us through at least three dense forest ranges before we reached the first mountainous spot. However, please be sure that your vehicle is in tip-top condition before you even dream to take our route! The roads are not that good...I would not use 'dilapidated', for it would be too harsh a word! But if your multi-utility-vehicle (M.U.V.) suffers from a technical sang on the way...you are gone! If the tiger 'burning bright' or the rampaging elephant spares you...for such animals, we have interpreted through our long experience, are too reluctant to be seen for free (some of them offered us glimpses of themselves on our way back)...I am not sure about people! For your information, the area around Chilapata Forest, about 20 kilometres from Alipurduar, is not safe even in broad daylight. And if your team comprises of female members too, it pays in the long run to be extra-cautious. Nevertheless, we travelled safely...our good old Bolero D.I. M.U.V. took us wherever we wanted!

We had a light breakfast at Lataguri, which we reached trouble-free through Domohini for the Teesta Bridge had improved...miraculously! It was around 08:30 a.m., as far as I recall, and heavy meal was a strict no-no! We purchased some provisions, chips, cakes, and all, for self-sustenance on the way. Thereafter, we travelled to Murti, drove through Batabari, past Chapramari, and the road took us towards Jaldhaka. For people with tour plans in the area, I must mention some road distances from the town of Jalpaiguri - Gorumara Wildlife Sanctuary is located 52 kilometres away, Chapramari is between 70 and 72 kilometres, and Jaldhaka is around 23-25 kilometres away from Chapramari. As such, Jaldhaka is located approximately 95 kilometres away from Jalpaiguri town. If "95 kilometres" sounds paltry to ordinary-road-drivers, you may remember that a significant portion of the stretch is mountainous and predicting the timing would be as foolish as expecting an early passage through Malda's Mongolbari area! It is one of the world's worse places for traffic which I have to traverse almost daily!

We could hardly contain ourselves as the surroundings on way to Jaldhaka grew more and more mysterious and beautiful! I began remembering what I had learned from my Visva-Bharati teachers regarding the Romantic Sublime! True...I had never seen anything so sedate, so green, so fresh, so unreachable, and yet so splendid! On our left-hand-side were the Himalayas...gently revealing their curvaceous figures with dense foliage as we plied...and on our right-hand-side were deep crevasses. Huge trees formed natural railings though...but we could well understand that if Mr. Orawn loosened his grip on the steering-wheel, we would never be able to blog back our experiences!

On our way, we found ourselves travelling through a place full of jackfruit trees. It was of particular interest because we never knew that jackfruit trees grew in such high-altitude areas. We were busy capturing the scenes through our Kodak digital and Sony handycam. The place was followed by different rubber-plantations. The Seema Suraksha Bal (that is, the S.S.B.) have their camp in this region. We crossed an iron-bridge where construction work was going on...feeling awful to have had disturbed the Nepali workers so intensely at work. God...they smiled when they saw us apologetic, and I loved their smile...there was such simplicity in the smiles vis-à-vis our cruel and scheming ones! The area was already quite high and we felt our ears getting blocked frequently because of the progressive lack of oxygen. However, it is never fatal for visitors to the area!

The road from Chapramari to Jhalong just winded upwards and upwards! It seemed to be never-ending! The surroundings were fast receding into deep valleys and gorges, and we could not claim a brilliant period of sunshine on a winter-day. Nevertheless, we never lacked in photographic-light, and when we finally reached an observation-point very near the 'Jaldhaka River Barrage and Hydroelectricity-Producing Project', we were surprised to see streaks of sun. We shot some photographs in the area...there was a restaurant nearby, and some small railing-pillars to sit upon. Beneath us...far underneath...the silvery River Jaldhaka was visible. We tried to guess what would happen if someone might slip through the railings - there were fair chances if someone was not cautious - and drop down towards the river, but dangerous thoughts seemed to be unsuitable for the happy moment, and we, instead, tried focusing on enjoying the natural beauty.

Wednesday, November 14, 2012

THE TWO OLDER KALI TEMPLES OF BALURGHAT


- PINAKI ROY (November 2012)


Other than the prestigious and popular Bolla Kali Mandir, located at a distance of 20 kilometres from Balurghat Town, to other Goddess Kali-temples are famous, as far as the cultural history of Balurghat is concerned. One is the ‘Bura Kali Mandir’, located inside Balurghat Market, while the other is the ‘Chakbhabani Barowari Kali Bari’.

Goddess Bura Kali – the idol being a small stone-made one with a golden face attached to it – is being worshipped at Balurghat since early-17th century A.D. The area where the temple – presently an imposing three-storied-structure managed by ‘Bura Kali Bari Debottar Estate’ – is located, used to be covered with dense forests, with the Atreyee flowing nearby. As the river changed its course and headed west, a stone-idol reportedly appeared from underneath the ground, and since then, came to be regularly worshipped. Though previously the goddess was worshipped in a makeshift temple, two philanthropist-believers, Gopal Chandra Chakroborty and Harinath Bhattacharyya, arranged for the construction of a permanent temple structure. Each year thousands of believers, some coming from the districts of Uttar Dinajpur and Malda, throng the temple-premises on the first day of Kali Pooja, and a number of goats are sacrificed. There is a belief that at midnight the stone-idol becomes animated, and the goddess briefly moves around the market-area, with her ornaments making light sounds. The leader of the late-18th-century A.D. Sannyasi Rebellion, Bhabani Pathak (d. 1787), and Rani Rashmoni (1793-1861), the founder of the Dakshineshwar Temple in Kolkata, used to visit Balurghat in their respective ‘bajra’-s or decorated barges during the pooja-period. It may be recalled that the Balurghat-locality ‘Chakbhabani’ received its name from Pathak; the word ‘chak’ suggesting ‘river bank’ in older forms of the Bengali language. The goddess is fondly called ‘Bura’ in remembrance of the fact that she is one of the older deities of the entire region around Balurghat. She is worshipped on the temple-premises, which alos houses a large idol of Lord Shiva, throughout the year.

Bhabani, who was killed in 1787 during an encounter with the English imperialist-lieutenant Brenan in Rangpur, also reportedly frequented what is presently known as the ‘Chakbhabani Barowari Kali Bali’. Actually, the Sannyasi activist is credited with starting the worshipping of the goddess in this temple. As was the situation for ‘Bura Kali Mandir’, the earlier Chakbhabani temple was in a dilapidated make-shift house during the late-19th century A.D., but was later renovated and erected permanently beside the present-day ‘Balurghat Police Station’. The goddess is worshipped piously all throughout the year and each day rice-offerings are distributed to the believers and devotees from the temple-premises. In 2012, Mr. Aroop Kumar Sarkar is officiating as the secretary of the management-committees for ‘Chakbhabani Barowari Kali Bari’.

BALURGHAT: VITAL INFORMATION



MEMBER OF PARLIAMENT (M.P.) (FROM BALURGHAT CONSTITUENCY):

1. Sushil Ranjan Chattopadhyay (Indian National Congress – I.N.C.): 1952-57
2. Chapal Bhattacharyya (I.N.C.): 1957-62
3. Sarkar Murmu (Communist Party of India – C.P.I.): 1962-67
4. Yatin Pramanik (I.N.C.): 1967-72
5. Rashen Burman (I.N.C.): 1972-77
6. Palash Burman (Revolutionary Socialist Party – R.S.P.): 1977-96
7. Ranen Burman (R.S.P.): 1996-2009
8. Prashanta Kumar Majumdar (R.S.P.): 2009-Till date

MEMBER OF LEGISLATIVE ASSEMBLY (M.L.A.) (FROM BALURGHAT CONSTITUENCY):

1. Saroj Ranjan Chattopadhyay (I.N.C.): 1952-57
2. Dhirendranath Bandyopadhyay (R.S.P.): 1957-62
3. Sushil Ranjan Chattopadhyay (I.N.C.): 1962-67 (Officiated as the Minister-of-State, Health and Family Planning)
4. Mukul Basu (R.S.P.): 1967-71
5. Bireshwar Roy (I.N.C.): 1971-77
6. Biswanath Choudhury (R.S.P.): 1977-2011 (Officiated as Minister-in-Charge, Jail and Social Welfare)
7. Shankar Chakroborty (Indian Trinamool Congress – I.T.C.): 2011- Till date (Minister-in-Charge, Correctional Administration; Non-conventional Energy Sources)

CHAIRPERSONS/SABHADHIPATIS OF WEST DINAJPUR/DAKSHIN DINAJPUR DISTRICT BOARD/ZILLA PARISHAD:

1. Sushil Ranjan Chattopadhyay (I.N.C.): 1948
2. Kamakshya Prasad Chattopadhyay (I.N.C.): 1954
3. Braja Bihari Roy Choudhury (I.N.C.): 1958
4. Shyamaprasad Burman (I.N.C.): 1966
5. Prabodh Kumar Singha Roy (I.N.C.): 1968
6. Government Administrators: 1968-78
7. Nanigopal Roy (Communist Party of India – Marxist – C.P.I.(M)): 1978-88
8. Nirmal Mukhopadhyay (C.P.I. (M)): 1988-92
9. Ranen Sarkar (R.S.P.): 1992-93
10. Narayan Biswas (C.P.I. (M)): 1993-98
11. Anil Kumar Singha (C.P.I. (M)): 1998-2003
12. Mohiuddin Ahmed (C.P.I. (M)): 2003-08
13. Magdalina Murmu (C.P.I. (M)): 2008 – Till date

CHAIRPERSONS OF BALURGHAT MUNICIPALITY:

1. Amal Krishna Gupta, S.D.O. (selected): 1951
2. A.N.Ray, S.D.O. (selected): 1951-53
3. Soumendramohan Mukhopadhyay, S.D.O. (selected): 1953-54
4. Kalidas Sanyal (I.N.C.): 1954-55
5. Maharaja Basu (I.N.C.): 1955-56
6. Sishuranjan Dasgupta (I.N.C.): 1956-58
7. Biseshwar Ghosh, Administrator: 1958-60
8. Jyotishwar Sarkar (I.N.C.): 1960
9. Subimal Dutta, Administrator: 1960-63
10. Ranajit Basu (I.N.C.): 1963-69
11. Dilip Dhar (R.S.P.): 1969-73
12. Paritosh Bandyopadhyay, Executive Officer: 1973-75
13. Sudhindranath Roy Choudhury, Executive Officer: 1975-76
14. Jayanta Roy, Executive Officer: 1976-77
15. Amalendu Ghosh, Executive Officer: 1977-79
16. Krishnagopal Bhattacharyya, Executive Officer: 1979-80
17. Sudhir Chandra Saha, Executive Officer: 1980-81
18. Deepankar Bandyopadhyay (R.S.P.): 1981-93
19. Dilip Dhar (R.S.P.): 1993-95
20. Sucheta Biswas (R.S.P.): 1995-98
21. Durgadas Goswami, Administrator: 1998
22. Sucheta Biswas (R.S.P.): 1998-Till date

CURRENT STATISTICAL DATA OF ADMINISTRATION, BALURGHAT (NOVEMBER 2012):

1. M.P.: Prashanta Kumar Majumdar (Balurghat Constituency, code number:06)
2. M.L.A.: Shankar Chakroborty (Balurghat Assembly Constituency, code number: 39)
3. Dakshin Dinajpur Zilla Parishad Sabhadipati: Magdalina Murmu
4. Dakshin Dinajpur Zilla Parishad Sahakari Sabhadipati: Amit Sarkar
5. Sabhapati, Balurghat Panchayet Samiti: Lata Biswas
6. Chairperson, Balurghat Municipality: Sucheta Biswas
7. Deputy-Chairman, Balurghat Municipality: Amar Sarkar
8. District Magistrate, Dakshin Dinajpur: Durgadas Goswami, I.A.S.
9. Sub Divisional Officer, Balurghat Sub Division: Pratima Das
10. Superintendent of Police, Dakshin Dinajpur: Prasun Bandyopadhyay, I.P.S.
11. Inspector-in-Charge, Balurghat Police Station: Monoj Chakroborty

BALURGHAT MUNICIPALITY AND ITS SUBURBS:

1. Country of Location: India
2. State of Location: West Bengal
3. District of location: Dakshin Dinajpur (Balurghat is the district headquarters)
4. Land Area of Balurghat Block: 363.9 square kilometres
5. Number of Wards in Balurghat Municipality: 23
6. Geographical Coordinates: 25.22° North and 88.77° East
7. Altitude: 24 metres/82 feet (above sea level)
8. Approximate Population (in 2011): 165,000
9. Balurghat Block: Balurghat Block consists of 11 Gram Panchayets: Amritakhand, Chakbhrigu, Gopalbati, Patiram, Bolla, Chengizpur, Jalghar, Vatpara, Boaldar, Danga and Najirpur.
10. Number of Moujas in Balurghat Block: 311
11. Balurghat Weather Conditions: Balurghat experiences three seasons and they are summer, monsoon and winter. Predominant conditions are hot and conditions can be difficult during the peak summer season. Summers are short and visiting during this time, might not be advisable. Monsoons are long and heavy rainfall characterises this season. It is possible to visit during this period; however the rainfall might affect tourist activities. Winters are mild and this is the peak tourist season. The best time to visit Balurghat is during the months from December to March. The summer season is during the months from March to May. Temperatures can reach a high of around 38 degrees Celsius during this period. The mercury can be expected to drop to a low of 20 degrees Celsius during this period. The month of May is the hottest part of the year. Monsoon at Balurghat starts in the month of June and extends till the end of September. Humidity increases during this season. The post monsoon months are October and November and this is a good time to visit. The winter season lasts from December to February. The lowest expected winter temperature is around 10 degrees Celsius. Day temperatures can reach a maximum of 24 degrees Celsius during this period.
12. Average Road distances from Balurghat Municipality:

(a) Patiram: 13 kilometres
(b) Rampur: 25 kilometres
(c) Gungarampur: 40 kilometres
(d) Buniyadpur: 55 kilometres
(e) Kaliyaganj: 80 kilometres
(f) Raiganj: 105 kilometres
(g) Malda: 110 kilometres
(h) Islampur: 234 kilometres
(i) Siliguri: 290 kilometres
(j) Jalpaiguri: 335 kilometres
(k) Kolkata: 444 kilometres
(l) Coochbehar: 414 kilometres


(Written/Compiled by Pinaki Roy, Balurghat, with whom rests the copyright (2012) as and wherever applicable).



Wednesday, November 7, 2012

A VERY BRIEF HISTORY OF BALURGHAT


- PINAKI ROY
(7 November 2012)


The history of Balurghat dates back to the period of the Mauryas (321 B.C. – 185 B.C.). Later, the Gupta king, Kumaragupta II (period of rule: c. A.D. 473-74), a descendant of Chandragupta II (period of rule: c. A.D.380-c.A.D. 413), is known to have founded the town of Kumarganj, approximately 24 kilometres from the district headquarters of Dakshin Dinajpur (West Bengal, India). During the rule of the Palas (mid-8th century A.D. – 12th century A.D.), a time-span when the regions round the present-day Balurghat came to achieve prominence, King Mahipala II (period of rule: A.D. 1070 – A.D. 1075) was assassinated during the 11th century by the Kaibartyas who rose in rebellion and ousted the Palas. The Kaibartyas united together to drive away the Palas, and areas around Mouradi Bar, 27 kilometres south-west from Balurghat, witnessed sectarian rulings by such rebel leaders as Dibboka, Rudaka, and Bhima, until Emperor Ramapala (period of rule: A.D. 1077 – A.D. 1030) ruthlessly suppressed the Varendra/Kaibartya rebellion, incarcerated or executed the rebellious chieftains, and re-annexed the region to his own kingdom.

Ruins recovered and analysed by historians over the ages have revealed that around 10th century A.D., the present areas of Balurghat and Gungarampur (located at a distance of 45 kilometres from Balurghat) were included under ‘Kotibarshya’, whose capital Devkote was located near the present-day Gungarampur municipal area. The entire area ‘Pundravardhana’ was home to the Pundras, a group of people speaking languages of the Indo-Aryan family. ‘Devkote’ was also referred to as ‘Bangarh’. The earliest mention of the ‘Kotibarshya’ region is in ‘Vayu Purana’, which was written well before A.D. 600.

Primitive areas around the present-day Balurghat witnessed bloody battles in 12th century A.D. between the military personnel loyal to King Lakshman Sen (period-of-rule: A.D. 1178-A.D.1206) and the forces of Ikhtiyar Uddin Muhammad bin Bakhtiyar Khilji (sometimes referred to simply as ‘Muhammad Bakhtiyar Khilji’) (d. 1206), the Turkic military general of Qutb-ud-din Aybak. Stiff resistance from the Sena soldiers notwithstanding, Afghan rule was established in Bengal around A.D. 1204. The kingdom was called ‘Lakhnauti’ after its capital, which was often shifted to ‘Devkote’. Muhammad Bakhtiyar Khilji was probably murdered at Devkote around A.D. 1206 by Ali Mardan Khilji and buried near Gungarampur.

Ancient villages and hamlets around Balurghat were improved and dense forests were cleared under the supervision of the medieval Bengal sultans Shamsuddin Muzaffar Shah (period of rule: A.D. 1490-94), his assassin-and-successor Alauddin Husain Shah (period of rule: A.D. 1494-1519) (whose name has been commemorated in modern Balurghat’s ‘Hoseinpur’), and Husain Shah’s son Nasiruddin Nasrat Shah (period of rule: A.D. 1519-1533). The sixteenth-century Hindu king and collaborator of Mughal Emperor Akbar (1542-1605), Kashinath Roy, established one of his citadels near modern-day-Balurghat, on the banks of the Atreyee. When the Bargi plunderings took place in Bengal between 1741 and 1751, the the-then Maharaja of Dinajpur, Ramnath Roy (1722-63), took adequate fortification-measures against them, strategically aided by the Bengal Nawab Alivardi Khan (1671-1746). By the time Raja Radhanath Roy (1778-1800) formally assumed power, Dinajpur had become a part of India under the rule of the East India Company.

History attests to the fact that the usually-peace-loving people of Balurghat and its suburbs have always had displayed an aggressive mentality whenever the issues of loss of independence and imperialistic aggressions became prominent, affecting them. They heartily welcomed the Sannyasi rebels during the Monks’ Rebellion (1771-1802) and offered them refuge while they fought against the English colonisers. Rebel leaders like Majnu Shah (originally from the region of modern-day Kishangunge in Bihar) and Bhabani Pathak (from Rangpur) temporarily supervised their anti-imperialistic guerrilla attacks from regions around the present-day town of Balurghat. No wonder central-Balurghat would be named ‘Chakbhabani’ in memory of the rebellious Bhabani Pathak, the mere mention of whose very name spelt terror in hearts of the East India Company-protected exploitative Bengali landlords.
Apart from documented history, certain regions adjacent to Balurghat that are channelled by River Atreyee have been made famous in Aryan legends especially because of the presence of two mythological figures – Lord Parashurama, and Maharshi Bhrigu, the latter being the first compiler of predictive astrology. While the anti-Kshatriya military leader Parashurama choose the banks of the Atreyee as to spot where he would absolving himself of different sins, the sage Bhrigu is supposed to have had temporarily meditated in the area known these days as ‘Chakvrigu’. The Atreyee, over the years, became a dangerous river, severely inundating the town in grievous floods in 1987, 1988, 1991, and in 1997-98.

There are three major hypotheses regarding why Balurghat came to be called as ‘Balurghat’. A group of nomenclaturists believe that the medieval hamlet of ‘Balhargahtta’ has had gradually transformed itself into the present-day town. Another group believes that even in mid-19th-century, Balurghat was known as ‘Kantanagar’, which, because of its nearness to the Atreyee and its vast sand-covered banks, assumed the name of ‘Balurghat’. The name was officially used by the English administrators in their documents after the establishment of a police outpost in Chakbhabani-area around 1886 (Balurghat was created a subdivision in 1904, and the Patiram-based police station was formally shifted to the town).Yet the third group believes that in late-10th century A.D., ‘Balurghatgunge’ was a resting point for prosperous merchants dealing usually in bronze-and-brass-made utensils, coconuts, and food-items who used the place to repose themselves especially in the area known in the 21st-century as ‘Ghatkalipara’. Incidentally, Dinajpur became a district in 1786. The English rulers would have originally created Patiram as the subdivision town had not Landlord Ranen Tagore refused to give up the required land or had not Rajen Sanyal and intellectuals like Nalini Chakroborty, Yadupati Roy, Mahesh Bagchi, Bhabani Kar, among several others clamoured for the recognition of Balurghat as the coveted spot instead of Patiram.

In end-19th century, a benevolent but powerful landlord Rajendra Sanyal established his manor-like headquarters in the area now known as ‘Saheb Kachhari’. The name ‘Saheb Kachhari’ was most probably coined by inquisitive local people who tried to understand the administrative measures being taken by Rickett, an English estate-manager appointed by Sanyal. At ‘Kuthi Kachhari’, Dhanpat Singh, another landlord hailing from Murshidabad, had his office. Later, the landlordship was transferred by the Sanyals to Bahadur Singh and Purnendu Roy, both residents of Dinajpur. In 1897, with the arrival of Kalidas Chakroborty as the first Sub-Registrar on Commission of the subdivision, different social developments gained momentum. Chakroborty popularised the habits of cycling and drinking of tea as a pastime beverage, and the playing of lawn-tennis. At Saheb Kachharipara, the first ever post office of Balurghat was inaugurated, while the first charitable infirmary was opened at Congresspara, which continued to function until a small-sized hospital was built at the present-day Dak-Bungalowpara. It is widely believed that the present-day building of the District Hospital of Dakshin Dinajpur at Raghunathpur was originally built to accommodate different faculties of the ‘North Bengal Medical College and Hospital’, which is now located near Shibmandir, District: Darjeeling.

In the early-20th century, especially before 1920, different banks were established at Balurghat in order to save peasants from being exploited by usurers. Among the early banks of Balurghat, which were founded but mostly failed to operate successfully, were Balurghat Town Commercial Bank Company Limited, Central Calcutta Bank, Santosh Bank Limited, and (the still-operating)Central Cooperative Bank, founded in a colonial building in 1915.

Balurghat-dwellers had played an active role in the anti-imperialist struggle. The rebellious ballad-singer Mukunda Das (that is, Yajneshwar Dey, 1878-1934) and litterateur Kaji Najrul Islam (1899-1976) visited the region in 1925 to inspire the prospective patriots. Subhas Chandra Bose (1897 - ?) himself came to Balurghat in 1928 and inaugurated a Congress-Party-office near the Atreyee. The freedom-struggle was further advanced by member-activists of the Revolutionary Socialist Party after its formation out of the occult rebellious organisation Anushilan Samiti in March 1940. Among the early patriots from the R.S.P. were Dhirendranath Bandyopadhyay (1905-79), Satyen Munshi, Khagen Dey, Kali Sanyal, Haribhajan Mukhopadhyay (d. 1967), and Probodh Talapatra. As the 1942 ‘Quit India Movement’ against the English colonisers gained momentum, freedom-fighting sons and daughters of Balurghat began to play active roles. On 14 September 1942, different English-supervised offices, treasury, court, post-offices, and other establishments were burnt by the agitators, and all throughout the day, the town remained virtually free from the imperial rule, with all its telegraphic-communication lines having had been cut off. Different activists of freedom-fighting congregations like the Anushilan and Yugantar Samiti-s and Hitsadhan Mandali operated from this tiny northern Bengal-town. Prior to this, on 24 October 1933, rebels from Balurghat and Hili – Prankrishna Chakroborty, Hrishikesh Bhattacharyya (1915-67), Satyabrata Chakroborty, Saroj Bose, and Madhav Roy being among them – looted the Darjeeling Mail stranded at the Hili Railway Station, and participated in a fatal shoot-out in which at least one person was killed. After the independence-fighting activists were captured at Samjhia, four of them were initially condemned to death but were later imprisoned until 1947. In end-1934, freedom fighters attacked administrative facilities at Bolla, destroying them. On 18 September 1942, the imperial police forces engaged armed revolutionaries in a shootout at Parilahat, near Tapan, in which four activists were killed. When malicious English administrators tried to create a rift among the Hindus and the Muslims, Balurghat-intellectuals were quick to see into their ploy and though numerous incidents of rioting ravaged India and Pakistan, not a single confrontation could be noticed at Balurghat. Other freedom fighters from Balurghat were Suresh Ranjan Chattopadhyay (1889-1951), Abdul Jobber Miah (1893-1972), Sushil Ranjan Chattopadhyay (1896-1969), Saroj Ranjan Chattopadhyay (1900-58), Satindranath Basu (1903-77), Paresh Guha (d. 1989), Nripati Chattopadhyay (1904-87), Jamini Majumdar (1909-80), Abinash Basu (d. 1982), Tarakeshwar Guha, Jyotishwar Sarkar, and (the lately-deceased) Pulin Behari Dasgupta.

Balurghat came into prominence during the ‘Tebhaga Movement’. It was a militant campaign initiated in Bengal by the ‘Kishan Shabha’, a farmers’ front of the ‘Communist Party of India’ (C.P.I.), in 1946. Prior to 1946, share-cropping peasants had to give half of their harvest to the owners of the land. The demand of the ‘Tebhagha’ (sharing by thirds) activists was to reduce the share given to landlords to one third. As the C.P.I. activists grew more and more aggressive, the English forces, aided by the local landlords, increased several oppressive measures against the campaigners, who violently retaliated. On 21 February 1947, only half-a-year away from Indian independence, the English forces found themselves lacking every form of communication as they went to the village of Khapur (not Amritakhanda’s ‘Khanpur’), located only 18 kilometres away from Balurghat, to arrest Chiarshai Sheikh, one of the firebrand ‘Tebhaga’ leaders. Having had failed to locate him, they nevertheless managed to arrest Jashoda Rajbanshi, the wife of the the-then party secretary, and four other rebels, Gopesh Das Mohanta, Sashi Burman, Ghutui Kolkamar, and Md. Gajimuddin. Infuriated C.P.I. activists snatched these captives from the English forces, who fired over 120 rounds on the ‘attackers’, killing twenty-two farmer-activists – Hindus and Muslims alike. Among the twenty-two rebels killed by the imperialist policemen were Chiarshai Sheikh himself, Kaushalya Kamarni, Kailash Bhuimalee, Dukhan Kolmakaar, Majhi Soren, Hopon Mardee, Bholanath Kolmakar, Bhuvan Burman, Bhavani Burman, Narayan Murmu, Gohonua Mahato, Nagen Burman, Shyamacharan Burman, Yoshodaranee Sarkar, Gurucharan Burman, Purna Kolmakar, Fahua Kolmakar, and Khato Burman. A statue erected on the main entrance-road to Balurghat, just before the ‘Balurghat Children’s Park’, commemorates these slain activists.

Balurghat was included in Pakistan as the Indian independence was declared on 15 August 1947. For three days, the Pakistani flag was flown over the ‘Balurghat Boys’ High School’-building. Balurghat became a part of India on 18 August 1947, and the the-then District Magistrate Bipul Kumar Acharya, I.A.S. (the first District Magistrate of West Dinajpur) hoisted the tricolour before an administrative-office-building. On the same day, too, the district of West Dinajpur, with administrative headquarters at Balurghat, was officially formed. At the independence-celebration gathering at Balurghat Boys’ High School playground, the two hitherto self-concealing freedom-fighters Saroj Ranjan Chattopadhyay (after whom the 1978-inaugurated bridge on the Atreyee was named) and Sailen Das presented themselves publicly, to countless congratulations. Balurghat Municipality was established four years after the Indian independence – on 18 June 1951. Kalidas Sanyal (of Indian National Congress) (period in office: 1954-55) was the first democratically-elected Chairman of Balurghat Municipality. Sushil Ranjan Chattopadhyay (of Indian National Congress) was the first Member of Parliament from the region, while Saroj Ranjan Chattopadhyay (also of Indian National Congress) was the first Member of Legislative Assembly. Nanigopal Roy and Ronen Sarkar, respectively of Communist Party of India (Marxist) and R.S.P., were the first Sabhadhipati-s of West Dinajpur and Dakshin Dinajpur Zilla Parishads.

As communal riots ravaged East Pakistan (the erstwhile Bangladesh) soon after the independence – the Shantahar Riots of 1950 being among the more fatal ones – thousands of Bangladeshi residents, most of them from the Rajsahi district, crossed the international border and settled down in the town. These were trying times for the tiny provisional town, but the residents gallantly faced the challenges. Even these days, crime rate at Balurghat is quite low. In fact, the crime-rate in the whole district of Dakshin Dinajpur is quite low when compared to the national-level or even state-level situations. For example, in A.D. 2009, there were 28 murders in the district, 49 cases of rapes, 56 cases of abduction, and no case of dacoity (Source: http://ncrb.nic.in/CII-2009-NEW/Statistics2009.pdf). The national situation was comparatively grimmer. But the residents protested spontaneously and even violently against some of the arbitrary and draconian measures about to be taken by the Congress-Chief Minister of West Bengal, Bidhan Chandra Ray (1882-1962). First, when he decided to unite Bengal and Bihar in 1956 (during his chief-minister-ship between 1948 and 1962), hundreds of Balurghat-dwellers courted arrests while staging demonstrations. A year later, the state-government decided to shift the administrative headquarters of the district of West Dinajpur from Balurghat to Raiganj – a proposal which so irritated the Balurghat-citizens and galvanised them into protestations that it had to be abandoned.

During the Food Movement (‘Kshadya Andolon’) that began in 1959, Balurghat town witnessed several demonstrations by the leftists, especially the R.S.P. members. In 1959, (the erstwhile Left Front government’s P.W.D.-minister) Kshiti Goswami demonstrated rather violently against the ‘anti-people policies’ of the Congress-led state government, leading a group of ‘famished people’ inside the Balurghat Court-premises and ransacking properties. The Balurghat-chapter of the ‘Food Movement’, which gained momentum during the food-crisis of 1966, was especially directed against the alleged ‘mismanagement’ of Prafulla Chandra Sen (1897-1990), who was the Chief Minister of Bengal between 1962 and 1967. When Sen and the Janata Party-M.L.A. Abha Maiti (b. 1925) came to Balurghat to address the town-dwellers and party members on 8 March 1966, irate commoners began demonstrating against the Chief Minister inside the present-day ‘Natya Mandir’ proscenium-theatre-house, which ‘invited’ police lathi-charges. Scores of people were grievously injured, and young leftist leaders like Debashish Chakroborty and Benoy Chakroborty were arrested and temporarily incarcerated.

During the period of Naxalite Revolution (1967-72), Balurghat town remained tense. Though there were scarcely any incident of large-scale violence and arson, Naxalite activists were supposed to have had annihilated a businessman, Kali Saha, and two police personnel. During this time, R.S.P. cadres inspired peasants to vociferously protest against various injustices supposedly perpetrated on them. During the turbulent late-1960s and early-1970s, the successive Chairmen of Balurghat Municipality were Ranajit Basu (of Indian National Congress) (period in office: 1964-69) and Dilip Dhar (of R.S.P.) (period in office: 1969-73).

From November to early-December 1971, aggressive military forces of East Pakistan resorted to indiscriminate shelling of the town especially from Farsipara (in Naogaon, East Pakistan) on suspicion that Bangladeshi ‘Mukti Bahini’ personnel, inimical to Pakistani soldiers, were being trained there. Actually, Mukti Bahini cadres were stationed at Teor and Balurghat. Several innocent Balurghat residents were killed in the indiscriminate shelling, especially on 25 and 26 November 1971 Thursday and Friday, in areas of the present-day ‘Balurghat Municipal Bus-stand’ and ‘Balurghat Telephone Exchange’. The region would later witness severe fighting between the Indian and Pakistani forces during the 24 November-11 December 1971 Indo-Pak War. The ‘20th Mountain Division’ of the Indian Army, under the Commanding Officer Major General Lakshman Singh, had set up their headquarters at Balurghat. As pitched battles were fought, at least 10 officers and over 400 general soldiers of the Indian Army laid down their lives at Hili, 25 kilometres away from Balurghat. The ‘Battle of Hili’ (23 November-11 December 1971), in which at least 2100 Pakistani soldiers were killed, remained one of the grimmer engagements of the 1971 international belligerence. During the battle, numerous Balurghat-residents suffered from conjunctivitis-like syndrome, popularly called as ‘Jai Bangla’, which later-days’-physicians conjectured to have had arose of the pollution of air by gunpowder and the powdered-form of different other poisonous explosive materials.

From 1947 until 31 March 1992, Balurghat was the district headquarters of erstwhile ‘West Dinajpur’. The district was bifurcated into Uttar and Dakshin Dinajpurs (with the town becoming the district headquarters of the latter) on 1 April 1992 Wednesday when Debashish Som, I.A.S., was the West Dinajpur District Magistrate. After his transference in November 1993, D.C. Sarkar, I.A.S., became the first fully-serving District Magistrate of Dakshin Dinajpur (period in office: 1993-94). The bifurcation occurred when Deepankar Bandyopadhyay (of the R.S.P.) was the Chairman of Balurghat Municipality (period in office: 1981-93). In November 2003, the first medium-scale industry of Dakshin Dinajpur was established not far from Balurghat. Railway connection to Balurghat was formally declared open on 30 December 2004. In the 1950s, there was regular air-transport to and from Balurghat, and aeroplanes took off and landed at the Mahinagar-based aerodrome. Three private organisations “Balurghat Air Transport”, “Surekha Transport”, and “Sky Players Transport” regularly operated flights to and from the town until early-1960. In 1987, a “Vayudoot” air-service was started thrice-a-week at Balurghat, but due to steep airfares and consequently a very few passengers, the service was grounded by the end of the year. The 11th and present-days’ Chief Minister of West Bengal, Mamata Bandyopadhyay (b. 1955) (since 20 May 2011), has been sincerely trying to resume air-services to Balurghat.

As per the census and other relevant data complied by the Government of India in A.D. 2011, Balurghat is the 20th largest town in West Bengal, and was declared the cleanest city of the state consecutively for two years in 2007 and 2008 (U.R.L. http://www.changekolkata.org/clean-city-competition.html). According to the 2011-census-related data, the average literacy rate for Balurghat is 91.66 percent, which is the third-most literate town in West Bengal, only after Darjeeling (93.17 %) and Coochbehar (91.75 %) (U.R.L.: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_cities_in_West_Bengal, updated 5 September 2012, and http://www.censusindia.gov.in/2011-prov-results/paper2/data_files/India2/Table_3_PR_UA_Citiees_1Lakh_and_Above.pdf). In spite of its comparatively small size, Balurghat has continued to make its presence felt in the national and state arenas through its sizable educated luminaries and a thriving theatre-culture, contributed to mainly the former and present activists of such theatrical conglomerations like “Tuneer”, “Balurghat Natya Tirtha Karmibrindo” and “Tritirtho Natya Sanstha”. The latter group has its specific proscenium theatre house at ‘Gobindangan’ in the Tridhara-Club-para, North Chakbhabani, Balurghat. The town’s theatre-culture has long attracted international attention. Also, a large number of little magazines are regularly published from the town, among which ‘Ashokban’ (since 1975, quarterly), ‘Dadhichi’ (since 1992, quarterly), ‘Madhuparni’ (since 1965, quarterly), ‘Suryabeej’ (since 1982; quarterly), and ‘Ei Path’ (quarterly) have had enjoyed wide readership. ‘Natyachinta’, a quarterly magazine on dramatic performances and art, is also published on a quarterly basis. The noted dramatist Manmatha Roy (1899-1988) wrote most of his famous works while serving as a lawyer at the Balurghat Court. The town has dedicated its Rathtala-art-gallery to him. Litterateur Abhijit Sen (b. 1945) wrote his award-winning “Raghuchandaler Haar” (1985) based on his experiences of living in the town.

The literacy campaign for the provisional town of Balurghat began in 1901, with the establishment of what, in March 1907, would be formally founded as ‘Balurghat Boys’ High School’. In 1903, the coloniser-established school was gutted in fire, but did not stop functioning. In 1926, the ‘Balurghat Girls’ High School’ was established with active encouragement from the English colonisers. The town is supposed to be the first place in West Bengal where co-educational system was initiated. ‘Balurghat Lalit Mohon Adarsha Uchchha Vidyalaya’ was established two years after the Indian independence. In June 1948, Balurghat (co-educational) College was founded as an intermediate liberal arts college, recognised by the ‘University Grants’ Commission’ (‘U.G.C.’) two years later. ‘Balurghat Mahila Mahavidyalaya’ (also called ‘Balurghat Women’s College) was established in August 1970. The co-educational English-medium-school ‘The Atreyee English Medium School’ (affiliated to the Central Board of Secondary Education) was established in 1976. In early 21st-century, there are at least 18 state-government-sponsored high schools in the town and its suburbs, one central school, and one privately-managed high school, and two private schools deemed to become high schools. ‘Balurghat Law College’, affiliated to the University of Gour Banga, was established in 2001, while ‘Balurghat B. Ed. College’ was established in July 2004. In 1996, the Balurghat Industrial Training Institute became functional. The private-engineering college ‘Techno Global Balurghat’ became operational in 2009.

This brief history of Balurghat has been written more as a profile of the town. Every Balurghat-resident feels that the clean and lush-green town has the potential to claim its seat of importance and eminence more and more as years pass. The different W.B.C.H.S.E.-conducted ‘Higher Secondary Examination’ and ‘Madhyamik Pariksha’-toppers in late-20th and early-21st centuries have already contributed to making the town a renowned one, and people are striving to become even better on every scale.


References:

Ray, Nihar Ranjan. History of the Bengali People: Early Period. Vols. I and II. Kolkata: Saksharata Prakashan, 1980.

Sarkar, Shib Shankar. The Role of Balurghat-Residents and Indians in the Bangladesh Liberation War. Kolkata: M.P. Publishers, 2012.

Sengupta, Nitish. A Land of Two Rivers: A History of Bengal from Mahabharata to Mujib. New Delhi: Penguin Books, 2011.

Uttaradhikar Balurghat: Dadhichi – Special Issue. Ed. Chakroborty, Mrinal. 6, December 2000.






((C)2012: Copyright rests with the author/compiler Pinaki Roy, except for the cited and referred portions. No part of this writing can be reproduced without prior permission from the author/compiler).




Friday, July 20, 2012

VISIT TO JALPESH AND JATILESHWAR

It is not bad to be bitten by wanderlust every now and then. It refreshes us, gives us strength to face forthcoming ordeals at our workplaces. That is why I give special attention to strolling once in a while. Our great poet had once lamented that we travel far and wide, but often do not manage time to step outside our house and notice dewdrops on rice-plants. Being a resident of the beautiful northern Bengal, I have decided to visit places in the Dooars, quite near our place, as far as possible. During our tour to Haldibari in July 2012, we decided to visit Jalpesh (and later, at the suggestion of one of my maternal-uncles, Jatileshwar)- a short distance away from Maynaguri, which is known as the 'Gateway to Dooars' and located at a distance of 10 kilometres north of Jalpaiguri. Haldibari-Jalpaiguri road-distance is 25 kilometres.

Dedicated to Lord Shiva - rather, Lord Jalpeshwara - one of the three principal Hindu deities, Jalpesh Temple, located at a distance of approximately three kilometres from Maynaguri, is known to have had been founded in A.D. 1524 by Vishwa Singha (1515-40), an ancient king of the region of Coochbehar and the son of the Mech chieftain Haria Mandal and his wife Hira Hajo.
Singha's son, Nara Narayan, rebuilt the temple, built almost according to Islamic architecture, in 1563, and in 1663, it was further renovated by the Koch King Pran Narayan. Each year, during the monsoon, a Shrabani Mela, that is, a fair in honour of Lord Shiva, is organised at Jalpesh by the Jalpesh Temple Trust, and it brings in thousands and thousands of devotees from all around Bengal and even India. Worshippers enter the temple, mostly located underground, reach the Shiva Linga located deeper where one has to almost lie on his/her chest to touch the Linga, respectfully touch the Lord's 'idol', and pour either milk or water on it. Photography inside the temple is prohibited.

We started for Jalpesh from Haldibari early on a July 2012 morning. We were supposed to go first to Jalpaiguri, and thereafter to Maynaguri, and finally to Jalpesh. When we started from Jalpaiguri, we were apprehensive regarding two factors - since the day of our journey to Haldibari, we were being constantly pounded by drenching rainfall, and there were chances that we would be soaked during our journey to Jalpesh too. And, second, and, more importantly, traffic-jams on the Teesta Bridge, just on the northern outskirts of Jalpaiguri, had reached fabulous proportions from end-2011. That could have seriously jeopardised our tour-plans. Lord Jalpeshwara be praised...there was bright sunshine all around, and we passed through the bridge without encountering a single jam!

The journey to Maynaguri was without any incident too...I was inquisitive, Santanu Bhattacharyya (my 'Santumama') edgy, my maternal grandfather, Amalendranath Roy, troubled and sullen that he had taken a light meal before leaving, and my mother Ratna Roy curious. Taking a right-turn a few kilometres north of Maynaguri, we took the same road as which goes to Changrabandha, feeling bored by the unexceptional surroundings. Dust, broken roads, and hurrying National Permit lorries lay all around us.
However, the scenery began to change as we took a left turn and separated from the road that led to Changrabandha. Often glimpses of pristine, sylvan nature would greet us.
There were a few tea-gardens too. The road was gradually narrowing, and a few bridges, made of iron, had to be cautiously negotiated. "During Shraboni Mela, a few days from now, you could not have recognised these roads", my mama informed us. "They get overcrowded, and thousands of small-time traders open their shops by roadside".

A couple of kilometre ahead...maybe one...and we could finally catch the first glimpse of the majestic dome of the Jalpesh Temple rising, as if to greet us and reassure us that Lord Shiva was there to take care of us. We were fasting, and we wanted to worship him, having had heard about the 'special activities' of the Lord in this area. Already we had enough sunshine and trouble-free movement to come to believe in his benevolence.

Our chauffeur Biswanath Orawn parked our Bolero D.I. multi-utility-vehicle (M.U.V.) in a clearing just outside the temple-gate.
The statues of two elephants, raising an image of Lord Shiva on their trunks, looked both wonderful and menacing. Mess with the Lord, and you are gone!
It was the first gate to the temple. The second was a conventional one, made of iron, for security, and was painted in yellow and sky colours. Inside the temple premises, my maternal grandfather was elated to have discovered one of his acquaintances who was a priest there. Through his directions and aid we could reach inside the main-temple-area without purchasing tickets! Our chauffeur, who came later, was not that lucky! He had to pay the fees - albeit a nominal one - before entering.

I must admit that the brilliant interiors of the temple immediately induced in me an amount of respect for the Lord. We offered aggarbattis and flowers to the idols at the entrance: there were a few apparitions - 'Nandi' and 'Vringi', the followers of Lord Mahadeva - and his pet bull. Thereafter, we were ushered in through a watery and slippery entrance inside the main premises. It was a semi-circular room, with a high, dome-like roof, and painted in white. Although the light inside was insufficient, we could discover some deities having had been stacked against the walls in various corners. At the centre, surrounded by steel-protective-fence, was the main linga, immersed in water. A circular and raised boundary and a sub-boundary separated the deity from the visitors. The idea is that you will have to either squat on your legs or lie on the floor to touch the linga after the priest (purohit) Bhattacharyya performed the worshipping (pooja) for you against a nominal 'respect-fees' (dakshina).

Squatting and lying are words better said than done for touching the linga. I never imagined that the task would be so difficult. Let alone my mother or my maternal uncle, even a tall person like myself could hardly touch the deity, tat too having had planted one of my knees in the sub-boundary, unwatched by the priest. Huffing and puffing after the efforts, I held my mother and my maternal uncle together as we negotiated another slippery way to the other deities located in an exterior section of the temple. We offered our respects there, marvelled at the deep location of another linga deep in the ground, and got holy-strings encircled round our right wrists against a dakshina of Rs. 10/- on an average. We came out, satisfied, got our chauffeur offer pooja too, and were on our way to Jatileshwar.

Jatileshwar is also a 'temple-place' - if I am allowed to use the term - but its temples, mainly dedicated to Lord Shiva, predate that in Jalpeshwar.
Though there are a few other constructions, the principal temple, now in ruins, was probably built during the Gupta rule in India, approximately between A.D. 320 and A.D. 600.
Jatileshwar is 13 kilometres away from Maynaguri, and the temples are spread over a large area, surrounded by lush greenery. There are no entry-fees, and the temples' priests depend on your munificence. I immediately liked the place, especially the huge banyan tree where people make wishes and tie coloured strings. The unwritten rule is that you must come back to the tree to untie the knotted string as and when the Lord would grant your prayer...otherwise, bad luck might engulf you. The main idol of Lord Jatileshwara remains surrounded by 6-feet-water inside the temple, and Mishra, one of the priests, narrated how believers hold their breath to reach the idol, touch Him, and swim back.
There is also a Maa Siddheshwari Mandir, which is also known as 'Kamakshya Temple', and you would not need to visit Kamakshya in Assam if you saw the temple, which also remains full of water during the monsoon.
We paid our respects to the Lord,
but did not offer pooja, and on our way back, we paid a tour to Maynaguri College (located at a picturesque spot)and thereafter to Lataguri,
before reaching Jalpaiguri at around 06:30 p.m. - tired but contended.

Saturday, June 2, 2012

Unforgettable Hill-spot: Reshi

Unforgettable Hill-spot: Reshi

If someone has been exhausted with the frets and fumes of metropolitan life, the picturesque spot of Reshi, located quite near the Himalayan hill station of Kalimpong (75 kilometres away from Siliguri), could be an exhilarating experience. Though not exactly located on the National Highway 31 A, Reshi, which is best visited between September and June, can be accessed from Kalimpong as it lies in the vicinity of Rangphu and Pedong, and if anyone is interested, Neora Valley National Park is not that far away from the spot – nor is Lava. The nearness of Sikkim adds to the attraction of the scenic spot. To add to plenty of reasons of sojourning at Reshi, the hospitality of the ex-Visva-Bharatians Mr. Norden Michael Lepcha (Mobile: 096411 91669) and Mr. Ryan Karthak Lepcha (Mobile: 098323 72070) – the courteous and gracious owners of The Reshi Retreat and Farmhouse (Reshi-Kalimpong, District: Darjeeling, West Bengal, U.R.L.: http://thereshiretreatfarmhouse.blogspot.in/) which possesses one of the better facilities of secure accommodation around, would continue to attract visitors to Reshi long after they have had left for once.

The best route for visiting Reshi would be from Kalimpong, which is approximately 37 kilometres away from the place situated on the bank of River Reshi (‘Reshi Khola’ in local terms). Tourists staying at The Reshi Retreat and Farmhouse, who would most conveniently reach there through private transport like Mahindra Boleros and Scorpios, can not only marvel at the preparations being undertaken by the owners to develop agri-eco and adventure tourism (a term preferred by Mr. Norden Lepcha) but also have a sense of expanse of the ancient Silk Route that connected India to China more than two hundred years before the birth of Christ. Reshi falls on the original Silk Route. The route passes through Jelep La via Mememcho Lake, Kuppup Lake, Nathang Valley, Zuluk, Lingtam, Rhenock, and Reshi Khola to Kalimpong. Lush green forests and sedate Himalayas would charm the adventure-seeking onlookers, and lazy angling in the khola is immensely enjoyable. From the mountainous spot, one can undertake trips to neighbouring areas like Pedong (17 kilometres away from Reshi), Kupup, Algarah (21 kilometres away from Reshi), Aritar (17 kilometres away), and Zuluk, and Mr. Norden Lepcha, on being requested, gladly oversees such short tours. The way to Menmecho Lake from Reshi is generally hailed as a road to paradise by numerous trekkers.

Even a confirmed bookworm is expected to warm up to the natural beauty of Reshi, which is 105 kilometres away from Siliguri, in the Kalimpong subdivision, and is also approachable from Rangpo via Rorathang. Numerous familiar and unfamiliar birds with their chirpings would mesmerise the sojourners. Busy people who still manage five days to spare generally stay overnight at Reshi, whose approximate elevation is 1,250 metres above sea level, after reaching the spot from Kalimpong, and leave for Pedong on the next morning. On the next day, a visit to Lava is usually undertaken, with a tour to Reshop for overnight stay. On the fifth day, Kalimpong can be travelled back. However, these are just suggestions, because tour-planning widely varies from person to person, and from group to group. Nevertheless, a visit to Reshi and a stopover at The Reshi Retreat and Farmhouse is sure to fill one with numerous unforgettable memories.

Saturday, May 19, 2012

As originally published in:
Editorial Section, 17 May 2012 Thursday, p. 4, Gangtok-edition


DISTRESSED EVES: RECONSIDERING THE POSITION OF INDIAN FEMALES

13 May 2012 Sunday arrived and was over and the world celebrated ‘International Mothers’ Day’ yet once agin. Begun in 1908 in the United States of America, the second Sunday of May is being celebrated each year as a recognition of motherhood. Indirectly, the day is also a celebration of the essence of femininity. However, in the 21st century, the question has arisen to haunt us: are we really giving the females their due recognition? More importantly, do we give the women, whom we revere as mothers, the very chance to survive? If anything, they increasingly seem to be Indian Eves in dire distress – of survival, growth and development.

With his maiden episode of ‘Satyameva Jayate’ on 6 May 2012, the Indian actor Aamir Khan has touched a raw nerve in Indian societal discussions. The ‘Himalayan Mirror’ has finely covered its aftermath. Aamir Khan has not only explored but also substantiated the grievous state of female foeticide in our country. The experiences of Amisha Yagnik from Ahmedabad, Parveen Khan from Morena, and Mitu Khurana from New Delhi, who were invited on stage during the show, have something in common – they have all been physically or mentally abused for conceiving female child in opposition to their in-laws’ or husband’s wishes. We are one of the faster growing economies of the world, an electronics’ giant, a major military power, the world’s largest democracy, and yet, sixty-four years after the independence, the Indians are yet to change their attitude towards their own females. We are still an overwhelmingly-patriarchal nation. We are still killing one million female children a year, through foeticide and other means, to bring down the sex ratio to 914 in the previous year. Interestingly, females outnumber males in the whole of North American continent, most parts of South America, almost the whole of Europe, Australia, southeastern Asia, and even in more than half the countries of the impoverished Africa. Only in some of the south Asians countries – and, sadly, India is among them – the situation is exactly the opposite. These countries cannot shake off their responsibilities in bringing down the 2011 international sex ratio down to 984 females against a thousand males.

Crimes against Indian women are continuing and even increasing. As ‘National Crime Records Bureau’ estimated in 2011, India has 60 registered rapes a day. Many women are generally reticent to report ravishment, and yet the reported cases are so high. Even in the national capital of New Delhi, one girl is reportedly molested in every 14 hours. However, even more heinous than these crimes is the deplorable task of denying the female child the right to be born. In spite of several preventive measures having had been taken by both the central and state governments, biased parents and unscrupulous gynaecologists are still carrying on secret termination of pregnancies, usually of the female foetuses. Thought such incidents are gradually declining, statistics reported underneath reveal that the murderous crime is yet to be thoroughly controlled.

Not every Indian state, however, is at fault. 2011 government sources reveal that sex ratio is either encouraging or near-satisfactory at Kerala (1084 females per 1000 males), Puducherry (1038), Tamil Nadu (995), Andhra Pradesh (992), and Chhattisgarh (991). On the other hand, among the worst-hit states with a pitiable sex-ratio, are Daman and Diu (618 females per 1000 males), Dadra and Nagar Haveli (775), Chandigarh (818), and New Delhi (866). For other Indian states, the 2011 average sex-ratios were: Haryana (877), Andaman and Nicobar Islands (878), Jammu and Kashmir (883), Sikkim (889), Punjab (893), Uttar Pradesh (908), Bihar (916), Gujarat (918), Arunachal Pradesh (920), Maharastra (925), Rajasthan (926), Madhya Pradesh (930), Nagaland (931), Lakshadweep (946), West Bengal (947), Jharkhand (947), Assam (954), Tripura (961), Uttarakhand (963), Karnataka (968), Goa (968), Himachal Pradesh (974), Mizoram (975), Odisha (978), Meghalaya (986), and Manipur (987). Between 2001 and 2011, the child sex ratios have identifiably dropped in states like Haryana, Andhra Pradesh, Rajasthan, and West Bengal. The eastern Indian states having had been culturally most protective of girls, the imbalance in sex ratios in these states has become a matter of even concern for public health activists.

In the first issue of the first volume of “International Journal of Criminal Justice Sciences” (January 2006), Snehalata Tandon and Renu Sharma had given well-researched statistics regarding female foeticide and infanticides in different states of India, including Sikkim and West Bengal. In the beginning of the 21st century, both Sikkim and West Bengal fared high on anti-foeticide drives and the number of female foeticides remained nil in both the states. Three cases of infanticide in Sikkim were reported during the period, with two in West Bengal. In Maharastra, however, the reported number of female foeticides was the highest – between 41 and 45 – followed by Madhya Pradesh (between 14 and 15), Haryana (13-14) and Andhra Pradesh (8-9). The number of infanticides in these four states was respectively 20, 31, 1, and 8. Tandon and Sharma, like numerous other Indian sociologists and statisticians, agree that for foeticide and infanticide, female-children are specifically targeted. Other than counselling of and vigilance on prejudiced parents and increased reporting in media, the sociologists argue that strict enforcements of anti-foeticidal and infanticide laws with harsher penalties than ever could be effective in normalising the Indian sex-ratios. Legal measures like ‘Hindu Marriage Act – 1955’, ‘Hindu Adoption and Maintenance Act – 1956’, ‘Dowry Prohibition Act – 1961; amended in 1986), ‘Immoral Traffic Prevention Act – 1986’ have already been passed to change the situation, and with the maintenance of ‘Pre-natal Diagnostic Techniques (Regulation and Prevention of Misuse) Act – 1994’ since January 1996, the situation is expected to be hopeful with consciousness on the average Indians part. People need to understand that the female children are boons not banes. Not only they grow up into sensitive human beings, but also they often leave marks in every socio-cultural and scientific field. Parents need to celebrate the fact that they are guardians to females who would obviously make them proud through intelligence, education, beauty, and sensibilities. Thanks to documentary shows like the one Aamir Khan hosted, millions of conscious Indians are being increasingly forced to rethink their patriarchal ideologies. Only then can ‘Mothers’ Day’ be celebrated more successfully than ever.

– Reported by: Pinaki Roy; Balurghat